PARIS FW23
PARIS fashion week was from Monday February 27 - Tuesday March 7. I looked into three designers and found common trends within each runway show.
Chloé
Chloé was founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952. Her vision was to offer Ready- to - wear in Paris, which was rarely done in the 50s. She and her partner Jacques Lenoir ran ther house until 1985 when Chloé was bought by Alfred Dunhill, which is now a part of Richemont. Chloé is recognized as inventing one of the first - ever ‘it bags’, with 8,000 of them being sold before hitting the stores. Gaby Aghion is responsible for starting the concept of luxury, ready-to-wear pieces that could be purchased off the rack. Her brand has always been a symbol of youth and femininity and still is.
Chloé debuted their Fall/Winter 2023 collection during Paris Fashion Week. Creative director Gabriela Hearst was inspired by 17th century Baroque painter, Artemisia Gentileschi. Geentileschi overcame a range of personal and societal struggles, she is celebrated as one of the strongest female artists of her time.
Many of the pieces from this collection feature plunging necklines and low waists, resembling the 17th century dress. Hearst also incorporated many dark lines and color blocking resembling the technique used by Baroque artists. One dress that came down the runway about halfway through the show was composed of vibrant squares of paintings with a low scoop neck. There were also many pant suit sets, showing women’s strength and power much like Artemisia.
Givenchy
Hubert de Givenchy began his career in fashion at the age of seventeen. He attended the French national School of Fine Art and later apprenticed at Jacques Fath. He also studied under the wing of Robert Piguet but left because he felt he needed to create a more modern and current style, this is when he created Givenchy in 1952. Givenchy became popularized when he began making pieces for actress Audrey Hepburn. He revolutionized the way women dress and popularized women’s separates. His brand is known for high-end and high-quality clothing designs and perfumes.
For their Fall Winter 2023 collection, creative director Matthew M Williams focused on creating a “new elegance” to Givenchy’s sophisticated and classic silhouettes. He gave them a modern twist, balancing out the old with the new. He also said he aimed to “create a dialogue between Parisian chic and American cool”. The show began with several women in all black suit and jacket pieces, setting the tone for the rest of the show as deep and understated chic. Throughout the sophisticated pieces there were pops of bright pink and kelly green. The gowns featured remained sophisticated but like Williams stated they were modernized from what we have seen in the past from Givenchy. However the main takeaway was the overwhelming amount of layering pieces for both men and women.
Zimmermann
Nicky Zimmermann attended the design school in East Sydney, Australia. While she was there she began designing garments from her parent’s garage and selling them at Paddington markets. Her sister Simmone joined her in 1991 and they began their label together. Since then, Zimmermann has become a high-class fashion and lifestyle brand known for its unique resortwear. Nicky and Simonne’s style is unique and does not follow current trends, this sets them apart from many other designers. Their collections are inspired by their childhood in Sydney, Australia.
For their Fall/Winter 2023 collection, Nicky Zimmerrmann said she “wanted it to feel more relaxed”, and she did just that. An overwhelming amount of pieces were paired with denim jeans and denim jackets. She created a unique connection between the frills, floral, and flounce with denim separates. Many of her pieces were heavily influenced ultra-feminine romance, as seen in the lace sleeves and full ruffle dresses. Zimmermann partnered with the National Gallery of Victoria which allowed them to adapt the work of 19th century Australian painter, Rupert Bunny. Bunny’s work was inspired by the Belle Epoque which heavenly influenced his paintings. His work was featured in many of Zimmermann’s gowns which embellished the already feminine-romantic theme.
Works Cited
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/fall-2023-ready-to-wear/zimmermann https://www.zimmermann.com/us/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwlPWgBhDHARIsAH2xdNdS1_jfm-Z4Cs3j QoTVWWaHFSsrOtE--EJ7ioXokAhFV5Tc8dLEDSYaAnDVEALw_wcB
https://www.tag-walk.com/en/look/search?city=paris&season=fall-winter-2023&designer=given chy&page=3
https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/chloe https://fashionista.com/2023/03/chloe-fall-2023-review https://www.vogue.com/fashion-shows/designer/givenchy
